Mexico West coast

We are back in Mexico by the town of Hidalgo. We don’t want to stay long on the coast. We want to get Huixtla and begin to go up for San Christobal in the Chiapas. Our first thoughts when we think about this high mountain is to avoid the part of the country. But during the journey we start to love this kind of challenge. The only mountain we missed is in Honduras. Everyone told us that it is a pretty nice area. At the grocery store in Huixtla, a man with his 2 girls came to talk to us. They have seen our bikes outside and they would like to give us a place to stay. A couple of years before they hosted a european man for 5 weeks and they really appreciate the experience. They seem great so we decide to accept to go at their ranch. All the family members are excited to have us at home and they want to have us for more than a night. Two days after there’s a party at home for Jorge's brother. Elsa the mother and the 3 girls Georgina, Laura and Alejandra ask us if we want to stay. We can’t say no and it’s a good way to see a Mexican family party. Elsa is a really good cook and she did a lot of different dishes for us. The only thing she can’t do well is the rice but no Mexicans are able to do good rice. The only difference of party is the food and their horrible loud music. We had a lot of fun, like always Max did the clown for the children but the adults laugh more than the children. We know the chicharones (fried pork skin) but we discover the chicharines (something between potato chips and cheese chips). With hot sauce we just can’t stop eating it. They don’t want to let us leave and they plan a lot of different things to do and to see for the week. They are so excited we can’t refuse. We passed the week with them and finally a second one because Jorge needs a surgery and he asks us to babysitting the girls when Elsa is not at home.
After more than 2 weeks off we return to the road which is absolutely bad. Our first day is a big ascent. We started the daysat the sea level and finish 50 km after at 2800m high. Emilie started to be discouraged but with the good Max’s words, little by little we get to the summit. The beer was so good! The next day, to get San Christobal, were not easy constantly up and downs. The landscape is so beautiful. We were really happy to do this road. Max is going to remember it for a long time. He had 4 flats in 10 km of ascension. What time we lost. San Christobal is a beautiful colonial town. In the centre the streets are rock paved and the buildings look great.
We stayed there couple of days in a hotel because the prices are good. A lot of tours are offered so we decided to go visit Palenque ruines, Misol Ha and Agua Azul. We were really glad to do it in a car because there is a lot of mountain to cross to get there. In high altitude the weather is totally different (10-15 degree less). The clothing is different too. The woman wear big skirts (something’s like a blanket) in black wool attach with full colored ribbon on the waist. The food is different too. For the breakfast it is hot arroz con leche (milk with rice and a touch of cinnamon) with tamales (pork or chicken in sauce in a corn past cook (boiled) in a corn leaf) delicious and substantial. You find the best tamales in this area. The people stay late in the streets and to break the bread they eat corn again. You find corn on the cob or in a glass with fresh creme, cheese and hot sauce.
It goes a little bit higher to exit the city then we just have to appreciate the descent and the landscape until Tuxtla Gutéres the capital of the State. We did a stopover in Chiapas de Corzo where we can take a boat to visit the Canyon Del Summidero. The river was previously small and became very large (800m higher) since they built a hydroelectric dam. In Tuxtla we went to visit the zoo. It focuses only on animals of Mexico but has a beautiful variety anyway. We reach the coast, we finally will be able to take advantage of the beach for real. A lot of person gave us several warning on winds in La Ventosa. The day we passed has not been so horrible but what beauty, a huge field of wind turbines. These white giants are quite impressive.
Max and Mike our Australian friends had spoken of the Mexican mechanic in Huatulco whohad hosted them. We therefore decided to go meet him for a few adjustments and maybe for a roof to. The Mexicans and their indications. It been quite laborious to find the famous Alfonso which has proved very kind. The objective beach is approaching. 29 October we arrive at Zipolite. It is a very small village perfect for a holiday. As we were a few weeks before the start of the tourist season the beach was almost desert. If you like to practice the nudism this is the place you are looking for. We would like to stay longer but it has no ATM or possibility to pay other than in cash. Also there is not a good variety of items if you want to cook your meals. Only 8 km from Zipolite, the village of Mazunte is also charming. The big difference of 2 villages is the beach. Zipolite’s beach is more than 1 km long and shallow water. In Mazunte the waves are higher.
Then Puerto Escondido, larger and very complete. We took a campground on the edge of the sea, at the main beach, Las Palmas trailer park, in the action and the fishermen arrival. We have bought few time fresh fish. It is great to buy but when it is a fish that you take yourself it is even better. On the pedestrian street several captains sell their fishing tour and make the good deal. But caution you have to choose the best captain. We found him. Captain Ceviche, Jesus is his first name, has made a memorable experience. Maxim took out a few fish and Emilie has finally seen turtles in their natural habitat. Really the ballad on the sea was magnificent. We therefore returned to camp with a whole Dorada that Max has been a pleasure to lift filet with a machete. We quickly took pleasure to the atmosphere of the place. And more when, Louis a quebecois, arrived to spend the winter. With a fridge it’s even easier for us then we decided to stay 2 weeks more.Great walks on the beach, reading in hammocks, long nap, snorkelling, big life! We were getting visit by JS and Guillaume, so nice. Ten additional days, we will have to pedal more to arrive in time for our second meeting with Raf and Caro. Beautiful surprise, Sophie has accompanied the guys. We had a wonderful week.
Already the 1St December, we must start pedalling must be to Puerto Vallarta for Christmas. Not easy, we were well on the edge of the sea with the wind and the shade of Palm trees. Include heat from asphalt and big traffic. The road is still well up to Acapulco, despite the overwhelming heat. It had been a long time that we have crossed a big city like this. Lots of traffic, the bus and taxi, we need to have eyes all around our heads. We went in a small camping that Pascal and Corinne had recommended to us in Pie De La Cuesta. Fortunately there is a swimming pool, the waves are too dangerous here. The road doesn’t offer us much otherwise than big up and down. However the temperature has become much more pleasant. We did a stop at Barra de Navidad on Louis's recommendation. We don’t know if it is because it is an unknown town or just because the tourism is not at its best this year but we have not been impressed. We have stayed at the RV Park Cadillac Ranch held by john a Canadian. Less than 300 km to reach Puerto Vallarta. There is a 50 km segment of road which is completely terrible, full of holes, still less shoulder that usually and worse more is an ascent. However we can be comforted with 30 km of descent that follow.
Tacho’s RV park, we are very popular here, almost everyone are Quebecois. They come to pass the winter at the heat in their wheelhome at Puerto Vallarta. We had the chance to have the next campsite of Jean-Noel and Diane, two extraordinary persons. They offer us to use all their outdoor equipment. We used a lot the BBQ. Finally able to find good meat, we ate 3 consecutive nights big steaks! Raf and Caro arriving! It is always nice having visitors and much more now because they came with their bikes. We are planning a good run with a little bit of mountains and a visit to Tequilla. After come back the 200, the road we did last week on the coast. We began with an acclimatization time, it is Christmas!! We went to a spectacle for Christmas Eve on an island light by torch lamp. Charming! The first day of cycling we have get to Sayulita, 40 km north to PV. There is a campground almost on the beach and the village is fine. There are a lot of surfers again. Then we start the ascension to Tequilla. We think that is going to be soft but… We had to change our plan on the road. Caro and Raf had a big initiation of the mexicain traffic. Too many crazy people on the road for the holiday. We passed the New Years Eve in Tequilla. We had to take a hotel because there is no campground but you can find something relatively cheap. A couple of factory offer visit and tasting. We went to José Cuervo and now we appreciate much more the Tequilla. Someone recommend to go at Jala to cook hot dogs at the steam of the Ceburroco. What a bad surprise in town, the streets are paved in rock and it is like that for the 15 km to get to top of the volcano. A nice family brings us to the police station and they ask them to be our taxi. Perfect, in the morning we went to the summit but… under the rain. Forgot the hot dogs and the view. The next morning, the fog in the valley is just awesome. In this area the Santa Maria Del Oro Lake have to be seen. We slept for free at the mirador, pretty nice view.
Last sprint in Mexico, now we are going to Mazatlan. It is 500 km more North, to take the ferry to Baja California. We have discovered another interesting camping at La Penita. The city of Mazatlan is not the most beautiful that we have seen. By chance it is very simple for the ferry, a little bit expensive ($ 115 included bike) but it still 12 hours of boat.