Prairies

Long days pedaling straight ahead and ahead...... always straight, but the landscape is not less beautiful, it's only impressive in another way. These big areas allow getting lost in our mind, to realize that we arrive at the end of our adventure, at the end of all we did. Our friend, M. Wind, is in front of us or behind us every day. It's so exhausting when the only thing we hear is the wind buzzing in our ears but also so satisfying when we feel it behind our shoulder and when we eat 200km in a single day! Sometimes it's not just because of the wind makes the distances seem so long, simply there is NOTHING off the road, no distraction around!! One evening we considered a good idea to stay near an old barn but the gluttonous ticks were all over. They really liked Max’s legs, I wonder if he had ever left a place that fast?! The road conditions had been excellent since our entrance in Canada. That is unfortunately spoiled in the meadows. No exaggeration, the worst road of the whole journey. No shoulder, holes and canyons everywhere on the road. It was a real pain in the ass for wrists and buttocks. But once again we met a lot of very good people on our way. We learned the story and the legend of the town of Moose Jaw, with its red light and Al Capone! We also visited the nice city of Regina and stayed a few days at a charming man’s place and then we roam in street of Winnipeg.

Les Prairies

De longues journées a pédaler tout droit, droit, droit...... toujours tout droit. Le paysage n'en est pas moins beau pour autant, il est seulement impressionnant à sa manière. Ces grandes étendues permettent de se perdre dans nos pensées, de prendre vraiment conscience qu'on approche de la fin de notre aventure, de tout ce qu'on a accompli. Notre ami de toujours est devant ou derrière nous tous les jours. Tellement épuisant quand on ne fait que l'entendre bourdonner dans nos oreilles mais satisfaisant lorsqu'on l'entend derrière notre épaule et qu'on file 200km dans une seule journée! Parfois ce n'est pas que le vent qui nous fait faire de longues distances, il n'y a tout simplement RIEN!! Un soir on croyait bien avoir dénicher la grange parfaite pour la nuit mais... les tiques voraces ont eu raison de nous. Ça ne faisait pas 5 minutes qu'on était arrivé qu'elles avaient adopté le poils des jambes de Maxim. Était-il déjà parti d'un endroit si vite?!! Les conditions routières avaient été excellentes depuis notre entrée au canada. Ça s'est parcontre gâté dans les prairies. Sans exagérer, les pires route du voyage tout entier. Aucun accotement, des craques et des canyons constèlent la route. Quel calvère pour les poignets et les fesses. Encore une fois de très bonne personnes se sont posées sur notre chemin. Nous avons apris l'histoire et légende de la petite ville de Moose Jaw, de son red light avec Al Capone. Visiter la jolie ville de Regina en se reposant quelques jours chez un charmant professeur, puis déambuler dans les rue de Winnipeg.

Alberta, English

When we got to Lake Louise, of course we found that the campground was closed! But there was the park agents who recived us. They told us to go to the hostel because at this time of the year a Grizzly bear is around and the high level of snow make it unable to activate the electric fences. The next morning, after the abrupt 4 km uphill, we finally reach lake Louise.
The blue sky allowed us to make some beautiful pictures. We could even walk on the lake when it is abnormal to see it frozen at that moment of the year. Then we appreciate the senic route down to Banff. The ambiance in this city is really special. It is a very touristic one but... at the same time you can watch deers walking downtown! Then we started going downhill towards the meadows and... a snowstorm!
Crossing Calgary was rather fast then, with the wind pushing us. We stopped to rest in Bassano where we found a park for the night. A man came to tell us about the weather, saying that bad weather was coming. He proposed us to sleep at his place with his family. It was a really nice evening. The next day, always with this terrible wind, we rid at a velocity of 45 km per hour without pedaling hard. It was just CRAZY!!! The road got dangerous when the snow started to accumulate. Luckily, we had a meeting in a warm house with a very welcoming couple in Medecine Hat. Bonnie and Doug were wonderful hosts, they allowed us to stay with them during the 4 days of snow, at the beginning of May!!!

washington, English

It is not for nothing that they call it the EVERGREEN STATE,here falls enough water to keep everything green all year long. Once again we keep going to the end of this step, the USA. We found refuge behind a school, in Naselle, for our first night. We had chosen well the place for a sky night but without consideration for Mother Nature! The rain awoke us in the middle of the night, the roof which covered us was not big enough. We have camped in 2 different state parks (Lake Sylvia State Park and Dosewallips State Park) but hikes and bike sites are expensive ($14 a night). We tried to arrive late and leave so we could be free of charge. The road we ride is easy, we followed 401 to get Naselle, the 101 to Montesano and then the 12 and 108 to get the 101 again, it is mostly flat. The segment between Potlatch State Park and Brinnon is really magnificent, we go along the water and the traffic is quiet. On the road to Port Angeles, to take the ferryboat for Canada, we had a magnificent view on snowdrift mountains from British Colombia.

Oregon, English

In the rain! We entered Oregon April 1st with the sun but it did not stay too long. Following the coast, we went to Gold Beach. 101 is quiet, the up and down are much more gentle than in California and the people had the idea to build some bridges to facilitate the work. There is almost a madness, there is a lot of them and of all different kinds. Some are very beautiful and detailed well. There was regrettably no state park in Gold Beach, we went to the Indian Creek Campground quite satisfied with the sun who pleased us with his warm rays. It is necessary to know how to take advantage of the the little happy moments when they cross, the rain surprised us in the evening and has never wanted to stop. We went to stay in the Oregon Trail Lodge, and this during 3 days, because the hard wind, our tent filled up as a big hole of water. What a pleasure!!! These three days of motel could have been more because of the strong wind and the rain but our pockets find it hard!! We resigned ourselves to pedal in the rain and not just a little, EVERY DAY without any exception we had some showers. There are several states parks on the 101, hike and bike sites are rather nice and it is generally $4 a person. Some were closed or almost closed, so we were able to get out there free a couple of times. After 4 days of camping and bike in the rain (Bandon, Honey Man State Park(Dunes City) and Beverly Beach State Park) we were very happy to take advantage of a warmshower in Pacific City. We would liked to spend more time in Oregon but with this rain and the cold we rather wanted to pedal as fast as possible this part of our journey. Our last night, Hehalem Bay State Park, in the middle of nowhere! No idea if the only reason of the quantity of wild animals was because of the practical human absence but we saw a lot of deer walking directly on our site. They have no stress at all, they even took their time to stop in front of us to urinate! And during the night we were prepared for the daily racoons visit but those there were giants. Sorry for them, it is not with us that they got fat!

British Colombia, English

Back in our country by the sea. We took the ferryboat from Port Angeles, Washington, to Victoria, BC, on April 14 2010. The vision of our last mountains has to cross, the ultimate step of our great adventure. We were able to visit quit a bit the city of Victoria because some friends received us. There is a great bike path which cross through the city, "the galoping goose trail". The city also has the oldest Chinese Village in Canada. It is not so big, 1 maybe 2 streets! There is no choice of road on Vancouver Island, Trans Canadienne begin in Victoria, up to Nanaimo then we have to take another ferryboat to Vancouver. It would seem that the West side of the island with Tofino is magnificent but we cannot always see everything. We stayed a few days in the city, in the rain too most of the time! Max showing the important sites of the Olympic games. We went to fill ourselves with asian food at the famous Chinese grocery, TNT. It is absolutely not to miss for the Asian products amateur. Vancouver is a city where it is easy to circulate by bicycle, many road and cycle paths. One in particular makes all the Stanley Park and passing on the edge of water. It is a magnificent place to do different activities, meet people or just to relax. Not easy to get out of this town! Follow the 1, it is all that we have in our head. What we did not know is that in the periphery of Vancouver bicycles are prohibited. It is just when we leave to Sardis whom we are accept there any time. We were arrested by the police! Really nice policeman, he just warn us and indicates to us another road to use. That has prolong our day from about twenty kilometre more, we had a warmshower which waited for us in Sardis. Another point that we did not know the helmet is compulsory in British Columbia! The policeman has once again been really comprehensive. Finally the wind was a tail one rather than a head one, it is more easy to cover long distances. Once we arrive in Hope we wanted to leave 1 for 5 but the lady at the tourist information made us change our plans. She shows us the road conditions with a lot of snow on the shoulder, a lot of traffic and absolutely nothing for 150 km. We continued on Trans Canadienne following Fraser River, which is an easy way. There is not real hills before the Roger Pass. There is just some small villages between Hope and Kamloops and campgrounds are closed because of the early season. Hotels and motels are rather expensive so, we are always have to research a free place. We have to pass a night in Bandon Bar on the ground of para medics, the next night in Cache Creek then a night in a warmshower family in Kamloops. We keep our cadence because the temperature does not too much tempt us of taking a resting day. We pass by Salmon Arm, Revelstoke and then finally the Roger Pass! Not so terrible, the summit is has 1330 meters high but it is so gradually made that we practically do not feel it. Impossible to spend the night there, far too cold and the hotel far too expensive. We went down hanging 25 km (We made it the good way!) We stopped at the entrance of the Glaciers national park in a small hut with a lot of bugs but with magnificent view on a mountains goats family. Simply facinating to see them so agile on the escarped wall. The rain the rain always the rain. We would have been able to have a whole view if it was not been these clouds. We stopped 2 days in Golden, a town at the edge of the kiking horse to river so crystal clear water. Continuing our road towards the Lake Louise and Banff by way of the other one `col `. The last ones kilometre of the Beautiful British Colombia. The kiking horse pass is not more impressive than Roger.

washington

Ce n'est pas pour rien qu'ils l'appellent "EVERGREEN STATE", il y tombe assez d'eau pour tout garder vert à l'année longue. Encore une fois on continu a garder le cap vers la fin de cette étape, les USA. On a trouvé refuge derrière une école, à Naselle, pour notre première nuit. On avait bien choisi l'endroit pour une nuit à la belle étoile, c'était par contre sous-estimer Dame Nature! La pluie nous a réveillée au beau milieu de la nuit, le toit qui nous couvrait n'était pas suffisant. On a campé dans 2 différents state parc (Lake Sylvia State Park et Dosewallips State Park) mais les hikes and bike sont tres cher (14$ la nuit). On a fait attention pour arriver tard et partir tôt afin de s'en sortir gratuitement. La route se fait très bien, nous avons suivi la 401 jusqu'à Naselle, la 101 jusqu'à Montessano, la 12 et la108 pour rejoindre à nouveau la 101, c'est plutot plat. Le segment entre Potlatch State Park et Brinnon est vraiment magnifique, on longe l'eau et le traffic est très calme. En se rendant à Port Angeles, afin de prendre le traversier pour le Canada, on avait une superbe vue sur les montagnes enneigées de la colombie britannique.

Alberta

Encore une fois, arrivant au Lac Louise, le camping fermé mais là ce sont les agents qui nous recoivent. Ils nous disent de se rendre à l'hostel car à cette époque de l'année un Grizzly se promène dans les environs et la neige encore présente les empêche de pouvoir activer les clôtures électriques. Le lendemain matin, après l'abrupte montée de 4 km pour atteindre enfin le lac Louise, le ciel bleu nous permit de faire quelques belles photos. On a même pu marcher sur le lac. C'est par contre anormal qu'il soit toujours gelé à ce moment de l'année. Ensuite on appréciele décor en descendant jusqu'à Banff. Ambiance particulière dans cette ville. C'est très touristique mais en même temps on peut voir des chevreuils se promener sans stress au coeur de la ville! On amorce ensuite la descente vers les prairies et vers... une tempête de neige! Notre passage au travers Calgary fut assez rapide puis avec le vent nous poussant a vive allure, on s'est arrêté dormir à Bassano. On s'apprêtait à scouatter un parc quand un homme est venu nous interpeller. Sachant que le mauvais temps arrivait, il nous a offert de dormir au chaud avec sa famille. Le lendemain toujours avec ce terrible vent( on roulait à 45km/heure sans forcer, c'était malade!!!) la route est devenue dangereuse lorsque la neige s'est mise à s'accumuler. Par chance, on avait une maison chaude en très accueillante qui nous attendait à Medecine Hat. Bonnie et Doug ont été de merveilleux hôtes, ils nous ont permis de rester avec eux durant les 4 jours de neige du début mai!!!

Oregon

Sous la pluie! On y est entré le 1er avril accompagné du soleil mais ca n’a pas duré. Suivant la côte, nous nous sommes rendus à Gold Beach. La 101 est tranquille, les up and down sont beaucoup plus mollo qu’en Californie et ils ont eu l’idée de construire des ponts pour faciliter le travail. C’en est quasiment une folie par contre, ils y en a vraiment énormément et de tous les genres. Certains sont très beaux et bien détaillés. Il n’y avait malheureusement pas de state park à Gold Beach, on s’est donc rendu au Indian Creek Campground tout content du soleil qui nous faisait le plaisir de nous chauffer la couaine. Il faut savoir profiter des petit bonheurs quand ils passent… la pluie nous a surpris en soirée et elle n’a jamais voulu s’arrêter. On est allés séjourner au Oregon Trail Lodge, et ce pendant 3jours, car le vent se mettant de la partie a plié notre tente en deux dans un méga trou d’eau. Quel plaisir!!! Les trois jours de motel auraient pu se prolonger mais le budget n’aimait pas trop ca. On s’est donc résigné à pédaler sous la pluie et pas juste un peu, TOUS les jours sans exception on a eu droit à des averses. Plusieurs state park bordent la 101, les sites hike and bike sont plutôt bien et coutent en général 4$ par personne. Quelques uns étaient fermés ou presque, on a donc pu s’en sortir gratis à plusieurs reprises. Après 4 jours de camping et de vélo sous la pluie (Bandon, Honey Man State Park (Dunes City) et Beverly Beach State Park) on a été très heureux de profiter d’un warmshower à Pacific City. On aurait beaucoup aimé profiter plus de l’Oregon mais avec cette pluie et le froid on avait plutôt envie de pédaler le plus rapidement possible cette partie de notre voyage. Dernière nuit, Hehalem Bay State Park, en pleine nature! Aucune idée si la seule raison de la quantité d’animaux sauvages était du à la pratique absence d’humain mais on a vu énormément de biches se promener directement sur notre site. Tellement pas stressé qu’il y en a même une qui a pris le temps de s’arrêter devant nous pour uriner! Et durant la nuit on a eu droit à la quotidienne visite des ratons laveurs mais ceux là étaient des géants, dommage pour eux, ce n’est pas avec nous qu’ils ont engraissés.

The 2 California, english

We returned to the United States through San Diego. People of this city are completely in love with. It is easy! Good weather, more than 300 sunny days a year, there are beaches, beautiful parks and the famous San Diego ZOO. Animal lovers, we visited the 3 parks (Zoo, Wild Animal park and Sea World), and they are all worthwhile. Balboa Park is very large and has a lot of different museums to please everyone, and some parts are free to visit. Otherwise it is perfect to spend the day walking and relaxing or practice various sports (golf, swimming pool, tennis, disc golf, baseball ….) and an off-leash dog park. Once you know the streets labyrinth of the city you can go by bike and discover all of the small charming parks. The beaches are very pleasant and there are areas protected for birds. Thus, observe some. Such a beautiful city it is easy to fall in love with all its diversity.
Leaving San Diego, the road is quite easy and along the ocean almost all the time. This is the richest part of the State until Malibu. There is therefore no great camping and some are closed due to winter. Something has frustrated us, the RV parks have free parking in this sector to spend the night, and it is prohibited for us! Houses are impressive, huge and some have a beautiful architecture. We have bypassed the town of L.A., a little too much traffic for two cyclists and especially for the weekend of the oscars. We wont pedal on artists sidewalk but the roller blade sidewalk! Beautiful bike path on the beach in San Pedro Bay between Malibu and Santa Monica. The only camping in the corner is in Malibu (Malibu beach RV park, a few sites for tents, spa, $ 25 night..).
The first Hike and Bike is the McGrath state park in Ventura. Fine because it is not very expensive, but they put us in very pleasant places. Behind the bathroom, just next to the dump station or in the swamp where nobody does go, even if it was free. In high season is probably a better idea to get some cyclists together and share a true site. South prices are still a little high. Normally it is $ 3 to $ 5 per person but before Big Sur it was more $ 7 and even $ 10!
Maps made by Adventure Cycling Association are well but they are still a few gaps. They omit indicating season opening and closing of states parks. For some people, just going around large cities is a good thing, but we think it makes you miss several interesting and sometimes important things.
Until San Francisco the road up and down a bit on cliffs with a magnificent view. The only negative point is that the wind blows northern every day. In several places as the shoulder is full of scrap glass, screws, nails... Following the bike path can cause damage to our bikes because asphalt damages are not indicated (roots across). The South California is the most densely populated region. There are still very small towns, sometimes very small, fewer than 600 inhabitant, the smallest were all just 18! They are charming, but as they are distant there are not many products and the prices are really high.
We stayed in couples of State Parks (San Simeon, Big Sur, Half Moon Bay, Samuel P Taylor Bodega Bay Dunes, Humboldt Redwoods) although there were a number of them closed, campsites but also we took some warmshower. Once again we met nice people and shared good meals. We tried the bbq ribs at the farmer market in San Luis Obispo, fish tacos in Santa Cruz and the Indian and Chinese food in San Francisco. Big Sur State Park was the first hike and bike that impressed us. It is a beautiful forest, the trees are huge. We spent a pleasant evening with 2 people from Quebec, heading south.
San Francisco, city of the famous Golden Gate! Very beautiful, charming, artistic architecture detailed and up and down streets. The golden gate park is really large and it is very pleasant to walk or just go to relax. On the periphery of the city there is also the Lincoln Park which offers beautiful views and nature. It is between Ocean Beach and Golden Gate recreation area, where it is possible to make good barbecue with family and friends.
After the bridge begins the northern part of California state. The redwoods trees are everywhere! This giant is absolutely intoxicating. When you are surrounded by them, it's like being in another world. We thought we would have a warmer temperature in the forest, the wind would be a little less strong! Maybe a little less but with the percentage of moisture that kept the Giants in their dense undergrowth it freezes even more and it is still wet. In fact when it doesn’t rain! Only 2 beautiful climbs, they are between Westport and Leggett. Not so bad itself but the rain always starts when you are ready to descend. After sweating, we freeze. We landed in a warm campground, the state park was closed in front of Illusion Hill a popular attraction in the region. We visited the old town of Eureka to find a bike shop (Henderson Center bicycles). They were great but had to refer us to the next town, Arcata (Adventure Edge and Revolution bicycles). We continued our journey through the Avenue of the Giants, still under the rain.

Colombie Britannique

De retour dans notre pays, par la voie maritime. Nous avons pris le traversier en partance de Port Angeles, Washington, pour Victoria, BC, le 14 avril 2010. La vision de nos dernières montagnes à traverser... l'ultime étape de notre grande aventure. Nous avons pu profiter un peu de la ville de Victoria car des amis nous recevaient. Il y a une très agréable piste cyclable qui parcours la ville, la Galoping Goose Trail. La ville abrite aussi le plus vieux cartier chinois au Canada. Il n'est parcontre pas tellement grand, à peine 1 ou 2 rues! Il n y a pas énormement de choix de route sur Vancouver Island, la Trans Canadienne débute à Victoria, monte jusqu'à Nanaimo puis on doit y prendre un autre traversier pour atteindre Vancouver. Semblerait-il que la rive ouest de l'Île avec Tofino est magnifique mais.... on ne peut pas toujours tout voir. On est resté quelques jours dans la ville, sous la pluie en mageur partie! Max soulignant les endroits marquant des jeux olympique. Nous sommes allé nous gaver à la fameuse épicerie du cartier chinois, TNT. C'est absolument à ne pas manquer pour les amateurs de produits asiatiques. Vancouver est une ville ou il est très facile de circuler à vélo, il y a beaucoup de routes et de pistes cyclables. Une en particulier fait le tour du Stanley Park en passant sur le bord de l'eau. C'est un magnifique endroit pour se réunir, faire toutes sortes d'activités ou tout simplement relaxer. Pas facile de sortir de là! On suit la #1, c'est tout ce qu'on a en tête. Ce qu'on ne savait pas c'est qu'en périphérie de Vancouver les vélos ne peuvent pas y rouler. Ce n'est qu'à partir de Sardis qu'on y est accepté en tout temps. On s'est donc fait arrêter par la police! Très gentil le policier, il n'a fait que nous avertir et nous indiquer un autre chemin à utiliser. Ça a prolongé notre journée d'une vingtaine de kilomètres, on avait une warmshower qui nous attendait à Sardis. Autre petit point qu'on ne savait pas... le port du casque est obligatoire en Colombie Britannique! L'agent de police a encore une fois été compréhensif. Enfin le vent nous accompagne plutôt que de nous affronter, il est donc facile de couvrir de longues distances. Une fois arriver à Hope on voulait quitter la 1 pour la 5 mais la dame à l'information touristique nous a fait changer nos plan en nous présentant les conditions routières( quelques pouces de neige sur l'accotement, énormément de trafic et absolument rien sur 150 km). On a donc continué sur la Trans Canadienne suivant la rivière Fraser, qui s'est avérée plutôt facile. Il n'y a pas vraiment de montée avant le Roger Pass. Il n'y a que quelques petits villages entre Hope et Kamloops et les campings y sont fermés vu la saison. Les hotels et motels sont assez dispendieux alors on est toujours à la recherche d'un endroit gratuit. Nous avons passé une nuit à Bandon Bar sur le terrain des para medics, la nuit suivante à Cache Creek puis une nuit à la chaleur familiale d'une maison à Kamloops. On garde notre cadence car la température ne nous donne pas trop envie de s'arreter pour profiter d'une journée off. On passe par Salmon Arm, Revelstoke puis enfin le Roger Pass! Pas tellement effrayant, le sommet est à 1330 mètres mais ça se fait tellement graduellement qu'on ne s'en rend pratiquement pas compte. Impossible d'y passer la nuit, beaucoup trop froid et l'hotel beaucoup trop cher. On a donc descendu pendant 25 km (on l'a passé du bon coté!) pour s'arreter à l'entrée du parc national des glaciers, dans une petite cabane avec les maringouins mais... avec une superbe vue sur une famille des chèvres des montagnes. Tout simplement facinant des les voir si agiles sur la paroie si escarpée. La pluie la pluie toujours la pluie. On aurait pu avoir toute une vue si ce n'avait été de ces nuages. On s'est arreté 2 jours à Golden, une petite ville au bord de la kiking horse river, tellement limpide. On continu notre route vers le Lac Louise et Banff en passant par un autre ''col''. Les derniers kilomètres de la ''Beautiful British Colombia''. Le kiking horse pass n'a pas été plus impressionnant que Roger.

Les 2 Californies

On retrouve les Etats Unis en entrant par San Diego. Les gens de cette ville en sont complètement amoureux. Facile, il fait beau plus de 300 jours par année, il y a la plage, de magnifiques parc et le fameux ZOO de San Diego. Amateurs d’animaux, nous avons visité les 3 parcs (Zoo, Wild Animal parc et Sea World) et ils en valent tous la peine. Le Balboa Parc est très grand et possède énormément de différents musées pour plaire à tous et chacun et certaines partie se visite gratuitement. Sinon c’est parfait pour y passer la journée à marcher et relaxer ou y pratiquer différents sports (golf, piscine, tennis, disc golf, baseball….) et un parc à chien. Une fois qu’on de démêle au travers des pistes cyclables et du labyrinthe des rue de la ville on y découvre tous les petits parcs bien charmants. Le bord de la plage est évidement très agréable et il y a des secteurs protégés pour les oiseaux. On peut donc en observer quelques uns. Bref belle ville c’est facile de tomber en amour avec toute sa diversité. En quittant San Diego, la route est assez facile et longe pratiquement tout le temps l’océan. C’est la partie la plus riche de l’état, jusqu’à Malibu. Il n’y a donc pas beaucoup de camping et quelques uns fermés en raison de l’hiver. Une chose nous a frustré, les RV peuvent se stationner presque partout gratuitement dans ce secteur pour passer la nuit et pour nous c’est interdit! Les maisons y sont impressionnantes, énormes et certaines ont une très belle architecture. Nous avons contourné la ville de L.A., un peu trop de trafic pour deux cyclistes et surtout pour la fin de semaine des oscars. On a donc pédalé non sur le trottoir des artistes mais sur celui des roller blades! Belle piste cyclable directement sur la plage dans San Pedro Bay entre Santa Monica et Malibu. Le seul camping dans le coin est a Malibu (malibu beach RV park, quelques sites pour tentes, spa, 25$ la nuit..). Le premier Hike and Bike est au McGrath state park à Ventura. Bien car ce n’est pas très cher mais ils ne nous place pas à des endroits très agréables. Derrière les toilettes, juste à coté de la dump station des RV ou dans la swamp où personne n’irait, même si c’était gratuit. En haute saison c’est probablement une meilleure idée de se mettre quelques cyclistes ensemble et partager un vrai terrain. Au Sud les prix sont quand même un peu élevés. Normalement c’est supposé être de 3$ à 5$ par personne mais jusqu’à Big Sur c’est plutôt 7$ et on a même vu 10$! Les cartes faites par Adventure Cycling Association sont bien mais elles ont quand même quelques lacunes. Ils ont omit d’indiquer les saisons d’ouverture et de fermeture des states parks, on s’est donc fait avoir à quelques reprises. Pour certain, contourner les grandes villes est une bonne chose mais nous trouvons que ca fait manquer plusieurs choses intéressantes et parfois importantes. Jusqu'à San Francisco la route vallonne sur les falaises avec une magnifique vue, le seul point négatif est que le vent souffle du Nord tous les jours. À plusieurs endroits aussi l’accotement est constellé de débris de verre, de vis, de clous… Lorsqu’on suit les pistes cyclables ont peut causer des bris à nos vélos car les dommages de l’asphalte ne sont pas indiqués (racines en travers). Le sud est la région de la Californie qui est la plus peuplée. Il y a quand même énormément de petites villes, parfois même minuscules, moins de 600 habitants, le plus petit en avait tout juste 18!! Elles sont charmantes mais comme elles sont éloignées il n’y a pas beaucoup de produits et les prix sont vraiment élevés. On est resté dans des states parks (San Simeon, Big Sur, Half Moon Bay, Samuel P Taylor, Bodega Dunes Bay, Humboldt Redwoods) même s’il y en avait plusieurs de fermés, des campings mais ont a aussi profité un peu de warmshower. On a encore une fois fait de belles rencontres et partagé de bons repas. On a essayé les bbq ribs au farmer market de San Luis Obispo, des fish tacos à Santa Cruz puis de l’Indien et du Chinois à San Francisco. Big Sur State park a été le premier hike and bike qui nous a impressionné. C’est une magnifique forêt, les arbres y sont immenses. On y a passé une agréable soirée en compagnie de 2 québécois se dirigeant vers le Sud. San Francisco, la ville du fameux Golden Gate! Très belle ville, charmante, à l’architecture très détaillée et aux rues montantes et descendantes. Le golden gate parc est vaste et c’est très agréable de s’y promener ou d’y flâner. Sur le pourtour de la ville il y a aussi le Lincoln park qui offre de très beaux points de vue et de nature. Il se situ entre ocean beach et golden gate recreation area, où il est possible de se faire de bons bbq en famille et entre amis. Après le pont débute la partie Nord de la Californie. Les Redwoods sont partout! C’est géants sont absolument enivrants. Quand on en est entouré, c’est comme si on était dans un autre monde. On croyait qu’on allait avoir une température plus clémente dans la forêt, que le vent serait un peu moins glacé! Peut être un peu moins mais avec le pourcentage d’humidité que les géants gardent dans leurs denses sous bois on oubli ca. On se gèle encore plus et on est toujours humide. En fait quand il ne pleut pas! Il n’y a que 2 belles montée, elles se trouvent entre Westport et Legett. Pas si pire en soit mais la pluie commence toujours lorsqu’on est prêt a descendre. Après avoir sué, on congèle. On a atterri dans un camping au chaud (state park fermé) en face d’Illusion Hill qui est une attraction populaire dans la région. On s’est rendu dans la vieille ville d’Eureka pour y trouver un bike shop (Henderson center bicycles). Ils ont été super mais ont du me référer à la ville suivante, Arcata (Adventure Edge et Revolution bicycles). On continu notre route sur l’Avenue des Giants, toujours sous la pluie.

Baja California

On débarque sur un pays différent! On est toujours au Mexique mais le décor à tellement changé, on est dans le désert. La Paz est une belle ville mais pas énormément d’activités à faire. Encore une fois c’est le surf qui domine.Du sable et des cactus, c’est ce qu’on a à perte de vue sur les longues routes droite et plate de cet état. Notre ami le vent est un peu trop présent. La Baja est reconnu pour être venteuse mais janvier février et mars sont les plus fort. Bien évidement on l’a toujours en plein visage. Nos journées sont donc beaucoup plus longues et épuisante qu’on se l’était imaginé. Les regroupements de maisons que l’on croise n’offrent pas grand chose à manger et parfois, même pas de bière. On avait prévu le coup, on avait plusieurs soupers dans nos sacoches et un peu de rhum. Ce ne sont pas les endroits pour dormir qui manque. Parfois c’est pas mal proche de la route mais avec les journées que nous faisons on dormirait n’importe où. L’observation de baleines est une attraction très populaire. Décembre à mars sont les meilleurs mois pour voir les baleines grises à partir de Guerrero Negro. Le paysage a changé, le désert a fait place à un peu de verdure ainsi qu’à de petites montagnes. Notre objectif a été atteint, 1400 km en 18 jours. On est très content d’arriver à Tijuana, il ne nous reste maintenant que le dessert, les États Unis et la Canada.

Baja California, english

We landed on a different country! It is always in Mexico but the scenery is changed so much, we're in the desert. La Paz is a beautiful town but not a lot of activities to do. Once again it is the surf that dominates. Sand and cactus is all we see on long straight and flat roads of this area. Our friend, the wind, is a bit too present. The Baja is recognized to be windy but January February and March are the strongest. And he is clearly still in our face. Our days are therefore much more long and exhausting that we had imagined. Houses community that we intersect do not offer much to eat. We had envisaged this fact; we had several dinners in our bags. These are not sleeping places lacking. Sometimes it is quite close to the road but with the days we were sleep anywhere. Whale watching is a popular attraction. December to March is the best months to see gray whales from Guerrero Negro. The landscape has changed; desert has given place to a bit of greenery as well as small mountains. Our goal has been reached, 1400 km in 18 days. We are very happy to be in Tijuana, we have now just the dessert to do, the United States and Canada.

Mexico West coast

We are back in Mexico by the town of Hidalgo. We don’t want to stay long on the coast. We want to get Huixtla and begin to go up for San Christobal in the Chiapas. Our first thoughts when we think about this high mountain is to avoid the part of the country. But during the journey we start to love this kind of challenge. The only mountain we missed is in Honduras. Everyone told us that it is a pretty nice area. At the grocery store in Huixtla, a man with his 2 girls came to talk to us. They have seen our bikes outside and they would like to give us a place to stay. A couple of years before they hosted a european man for 5 weeks and they really appreciate the experience. They seem great so we decide to accept to go at their ranch. All the family members are excited to have us at home and they want to have us for more than a night. Two days after there’s a party at home for Jorge's brother. Elsa the mother and the 3 girls Georgina, Laura and Alejandra ask us if we want to stay. We can’t say no and it’s a good way to see a Mexican family party. Elsa is a really good cook and she did a lot of different dishes for us. The only thing she can’t do well is the rice but no Mexicans are able to do good rice. The only difference of party is the food and their horrible loud music. We had a lot of fun, like always Max did the clown for the children but the adults laugh more than the children. We know the chicharones (fried pork skin) but we discover the chicharines (something between potato chips and cheese chips). With hot sauce we just can’t stop eating it. They don’t want to let us leave and they plan a lot of different things to do and to see for the week. They are so excited we can’t refuse. We passed the week with them and finally a second one because Jorge needs a surgery and he asks us to babysitting the girls when Elsa is not at home.
After more than 2 weeks off we return to the road which is absolutely bad. Our first day is a big ascent. We started the daysat the sea level and finish 50 km after at 2800m high. Emilie started to be discouraged but with the good Max’s words, little by little we get to the summit. The beer was so good! The next day, to get San Christobal, were not easy constantly up and downs. The landscape is so beautiful. We were really happy to do this road. Max is going to remember it for a long time. He had 4 flats in 10 km of ascension. What time we lost. San Christobal is a beautiful colonial town. In the centre the streets are rock paved and the buildings look great.
We stayed there couple of days in a hotel because the prices are good. A lot of tours are offered so we decided to go visit Palenque ruines, Misol Ha and Agua Azul. We were really glad to do it in a car because there is a lot of mountain to cross to get there. In high altitude the weather is totally different (10-15 degree less). The clothing is different too. The woman wear big skirts (something’s like a blanket) in black wool attach with full colored ribbon on the waist. The food is different too. For the breakfast it is hot arroz con leche (milk with rice and a touch of cinnamon) with tamales (pork or chicken in sauce in a corn past cook (boiled) in a corn leaf) delicious and substantial. You find the best tamales in this area. The people stay late in the streets and to break the bread they eat corn again. You find corn on the cob or in a glass with fresh creme, cheese and hot sauce.
It goes a little bit higher to exit the city then we just have to appreciate the descent and the landscape until Tuxtla Gutéres the capital of the State. We did a stopover in Chiapas de Corzo where we can take a boat to visit the Canyon Del Summidero. The river was previously small and became very large (800m higher) since they built a hydroelectric dam. In Tuxtla we went to visit the zoo. It focuses only on animals of Mexico but has a beautiful variety anyway. We reach the coast, we finally will be able to take advantage of the beach for real. A lot of person gave us several warning on winds in La Ventosa. The day we passed has not been so horrible but what beauty, a huge field of wind turbines. These white giants are quite impressive.
Max and Mike our Australian friends had spoken of the Mexican mechanic in Huatulco whohad hosted them. We therefore decided to go meet him for a few adjustments and maybe for a roof to. The Mexicans and their indications. It been quite laborious to find the famous Alfonso which has proved very kind. The objective beach is approaching. 29 October we arrive at Zipolite. It is a very small village perfect for a holiday. As we were a few weeks before the start of the tourist season the beach was almost desert. If you like to practice the nudism this is the place you are looking for. We would like to stay longer but it has no ATM or possibility to pay other than in cash. Also there is not a good variety of items if you want to cook your meals. Only 8 km from Zipolite, the village of Mazunte is also charming. The big difference of 2 villages is the beach. Zipolite’s beach is more than 1 km long and shallow water. In Mazunte the waves are higher.
Then Puerto Escondido, larger and very complete. We took a campground on the edge of the sea, at the main beach, Las Palmas trailer park, in the action and the fishermen arrival. We have bought few time fresh fish. It is great to buy but when it is a fish that you take yourself it is even better. On the pedestrian street several captains sell their fishing tour and make the good deal. But caution you have to choose the best captain. We found him. Captain Ceviche, Jesus is his first name, has made a memorable experience. Maxim took out a few fish and Emilie has finally seen turtles in their natural habitat. Really the ballad on the sea was magnificent. We therefore returned to camp with a whole Dorada that Max has been a pleasure to lift filet with a machete. We quickly took pleasure to the atmosphere of the place. And more when, Louis a quebecois, arrived to spend the winter. With a fridge it’s even easier for us then we decided to stay 2 weeks more.Great walks on the beach, reading in hammocks, long nap, snorkelling, big life! We were getting visit by JS and Guillaume, so nice. Ten additional days, we will have to pedal more to arrive in time for our second meeting with Raf and Caro. Beautiful surprise, Sophie has accompanied the guys. We had a wonderful week.
Already the 1St December, we must start pedalling must be to Puerto Vallarta for Christmas. Not easy, we were well on the edge of the sea with the wind and the shade of Palm trees. Include heat from asphalt and big traffic. The road is still well up to Acapulco, despite the overwhelming heat. It had been a long time that we have crossed a big city like this. Lots of traffic, the bus and taxi, we need to have eyes all around our heads. We went in a small camping that Pascal and Corinne had recommended to us in Pie De La Cuesta. Fortunately there is a swimming pool, the waves are too dangerous here. The road doesn’t offer us much otherwise than big up and down. However the temperature has become much more pleasant. We did a stop at Barra de Navidad on Louis's recommendation. We don’t know if it is because it is an unknown town or just because the tourism is not at its best this year but we have not been impressed. We have stayed at the RV Park Cadillac Ranch held by john a Canadian. Less than 300 km to reach Puerto Vallarta. There is a 50 km segment of road which is completely terrible, full of holes, still less shoulder that usually and worse more is an ascent. However we can be comforted with 30 km of descent that follow.
Tacho’s RV park, we are very popular here, almost everyone are Quebecois. They come to pass the winter at the heat in their wheelhome at Puerto Vallarta. We had the chance to have the next campsite of Jean-Noel and Diane, two extraordinary persons. They offer us to use all their outdoor equipment. We used a lot the BBQ. Finally able to find good meat, we ate 3 consecutive nights big steaks! Raf and Caro arriving! It is always nice having visitors and much more now because they came with their bikes. We are planning a good run with a little bit of mountains and a visit to Tequilla. After come back the 200, the road we did last week on the coast. We began with an acclimatization time, it is Christmas!! We went to a spectacle for Christmas Eve on an island light by torch lamp. Charming! The first day of cycling we have get to Sayulita, 40 km north to PV. There is a campground almost on the beach and the village is fine. There are a lot of surfers again. Then we start the ascension to Tequilla. We think that is going to be soft but… We had to change our plan on the road. Caro and Raf had a big initiation of the mexicain traffic. Too many crazy people on the road for the holiday. We passed the New Years Eve in Tequilla. We had to take a hotel because there is no campground but you can find something relatively cheap. A couple of factory offer visit and tasting. We went to José Cuervo and now we appreciate much more the Tequilla. Someone recommend to go at Jala to cook hot dogs at the steam of the Ceburroco. What a bad surprise in town, the streets are paved in rock and it is like that for the 15 km to get to top of the volcano. A nice family brings us to the police station and they ask them to be our taxi. Perfect, in the morning we went to the summit but… under the rain. Forgot the hot dogs and the view. The next morning, the fog in the valley is just awesome. In this area the Santa Maria Del Oro Lake have to be seen. We slept for free at the mirador, pretty nice view.
Last sprint in Mexico, now we are going to Mazatlan. It is 500 km more North, to take the ferry to Baja California. We have discovered another interesting camping at La Penita. The city of Mazatlan is not the most beautiful that we have seen. By chance it is very simple for the ferry, a little bit expensive ($ 115 included bike) but it still 12 hours of boat.